To Polish or Not To Polish,

I say 'YES'

 


 

As most people interested in Japanese history know, the Nihontô (Japanese sword) was wielded by the Mononofu, Tsuwamono, or as they have come to be known, the Samurai. The Nihontô is definitely a weapon, in fact the finest cutting weapon ever developed by man. But it is much more than a weapon because its physical construction elevates it to  without exception the highest art form in steel in the world. That may sound biased, but I am convinced that is true after studying Nihonto for 5 years. The Nihontô, almost from the very beginning of its history, was certainly designed as both a weapon and an art form. If this were not the case, and if it had been designed as a weapon alone, swords of inferior quality and shape would have been adequate. Looking at the examples that we have today, one comes to realize that the makers intended to produce something of great beauty, something that would appeal to the aesthetic sense of man.

The Nihontô has a very dynamic construction - soft Jihada (skin) steel and hard edge. The Jihada has a definite grain in it. The Jihada's grain is produced by the process of folding and drawing out the metal, which actually makes the finished product a laminated blade. It has a variety of different patterns. The Ha (edge) of the blade is tempered into a highly visible pattern that is called Hamon. The Hamon is produced by covering the blade with clay and then removing the clay from along the edge until it is the correct thickness and shape to produce the Hamon desired. The sword is then heated and quenched. Because the edge has a thinner layer of clay, it cools more quickly than the rest of the blade. As it cools it crystallizes, producing marstintite and pearlite steel, the substances that make the Hamon. The Hamon is part of the overall beauty of the sword. Its styles are unlimited. And actually, it has very little to do with the cutting ability of the blade. The more than thousand year old Nihontô preserved in the Shôsôin Imperial Repository of Tôdaiji temple in Nara exhibit Suguha, straight temper patterns, of an extreme brilliance, and a Jihada of a fine, deep, serene nature. Technically, Suguha is more difficult to produce than a wavy pattern.

The Togishi's job is to restore a blade to its original shape and bring out the highlights of the Ha and Jihada. Accordingly, he must have a good knowledge of Japanese art, literature and history so that he can accurately judge the school, period, and general style of the blade, and thereby do the best possible job of polishing.  A Togishi must sit in a position that is actually quite painful until he becomes accustomed to it, usually one year after he has begun his apprenticeship. His tools are quite simple in appearance, though difficult to master. His most important tools are his polishing stones, which are quite expensive. Quality stones are difficult to obtain at any price. He must possess each type of stone in varying degrees of hardness/softness, and coarseness/fineness because each stone and each sword is different, and he must match stone to sword. If the proper match is not made, the stone will be ineffective regardless of the ability of the Togishi. Therefore, Togishi are constantly searching for stones and their stock grows continually. The Togishi must polish a blade in such a way that its art is revealed  and in accord with its school and period. Some blades require that the Jihada be brought out a great deal, others call for suppressing the Jihada to some degree. The Ha must be given similar attention. And the two must look right together.

 

A topic that frequently comes up among collectors of Nihontô is the difference between the finishes Sashikomi and Hadôri (also called Kanahada {iron oxide} or Keshô {cosmetic}). There are often  remarks promoting Sashikomi as the only "true" way of polishing.  Each blade requires a different style of polishing. But in general polishing can be categorized into Shitaji, or initial polish, and Shiage, or final polish.  Detailed information about the different stones and tools used in the respective stages, as well as the differences between Sashikomi and Hadôri, can be found in ‘The Art of Japanese Sword Polishing’ by Takaiwa, Yoshihara & Kapp.

Shitaji usually takes a minimum of 10 to 12 hours per day for four to six days, and requires many stones of varying degrees of coarseness. The stones correspond to the different steps in Shitaji. In order they are:
(1) Bisui (from Bizen) - This stone is used to take off heavy rust and return the blade to its original shape. It is very coarse and if poorly used can destroy a sword almost immediately.
(2) Kaisei - It refines the shape and takes off the marks of the Bisui. It was not used until recently.
(3) Chûnagura - A relatively hard stone of fine grain, it is used to take off the marks of the Kaisei.
(3) Komanagura - It is the same stone as Chûnagura, only it is finer since it is taken from the center of the deposit. It refines the Chûnagura marks.
(4) Hato - This stone is very hard. It is used to bring out the Hamon. It takes great skill and muscular endurance to pull the blade across the stone as both surfaces are hard. It takes several hours just to complete the Ha.
(5) Jito - The hardest stone, it is used to bring out the Jihada. If improperly used it will scratch the blade and ruin days of work. It requires the finest skill of all.

Shiage, or final polish, entails burnishing with a variety of tiny thin stones and a steel stylus. It takes about three days. The technique of Shiage varies from school to school.  In general, Shiage consists of the following steps:
(1) Tsuya - The Jihada is finished with a Jizuya stone that has been broken into fine pieces. It is important that the Jizuya is chosen to match the Jihada formation. Next, the Ha is polished with a Hazuya, which is very thin and rectangular or square.
(2) Nugui - Nugui, or wiping, makes the Jihada stand out evenly and makes the sword rust resistant. In Nugui, a mixture of sword oil and finely ground Kanahada, an ash-like by-product of sword making, is rubbed onto the blade. During Nugui the sword takes on a darker color, sometimes a bluish tint, the degree of which depends on the sword.
(3) Hadôri - In the Hadôri an oval Hazuya is used to make the top of the Hamon navy in what may appear at first glance as a string of mountains, which is in particular a characteristic of the Honami school of polishing. Today, about 80% of Togishi prefer the Hadôri style, and 90% of the swords submitted for the annual sword polishing contest held at the Nippon Bijutsu Tôken Hozon Kyôkai (NBTHK) have been polished in the Hadôri style.
(4) Shitamigaki - In the Shitamigaki a polishing rod, or Migakibô, is used to burnish the area between the Shinogi, the ridge running along the side of the blade, and the Mune, the blade's back, until a mirror-like finish is obtained. The Shitamigaki is the lower, preliminary polish with the Migakibô.
(5) Uemigaki - The Uemigaki is the final polish with the Migakibô.
(6) Sugikiri - Sugikiri is the process of defining the Yokote, the line at a 90 degree angle to the Shinogi at the tip of the blade.
(7) Narume - This is the process of imparting a whitish color to the Bôshi, the section of the blade forward of the Yokote.

During the Muromachi (1338 ~ 1573) and especially the Sengoku (Warring States) periods (1470 ~ 1570), swords were not polished like they are today. There was no time. The nicks and battle scars were removed, and the blade was returned to its original shape. An example of a Uchigatana with Kissaki repair is shown HERE. Except for those of the great Daimyô or those specifically kept as art objects, most Nihontô only received a Shiratogi, or navy polish.  With the advent of peace in the
Edo period (1603 ~ 1867), more swords began to receive a highly artistic polish as there was time and money for such work.

But the high level of technology today (particularly in the Shiage) evolved during the Meiji era (1868 ~ 1912). During the Meiji era a law was passed that prohibited people from wearing swords, but allowed them to own them as works of art (Hatôrei edict). That was a drastic change from the
Edo period, when the common people were more or less not allowed to own swords. Thus, on account of the new law, the number of people who owned swords increased and in consequence interest in swords grew, leading to an overall improvement in polishing techniques.

During the mid 10'th Century the basis for the traditional sword polishing we see today was developed. Honami Kôtoku introduced burnishing around 1600 AD. However, a polish beyond the Shitaji stage only brings out the artistic qualities and doesn't contribute much to the "cutting ability" of the sword. It can be safely assumed that most swords never saw the Shiage stages, which meant additional work, and therefore additional time and cost. Only during the peaceful
Edo period did this kind of refined polish become the standard.  In the Momoyama period the Honami family was retained by the Tokugawa as polishers and appraisers, and from then on they started to monopolize this part of the sword market. During the Edo period they had eleven branches, and everybody who could afford it had their swords polished by them.

A common misconception is that all swords polished until the early Meiji period were done in Sashikomi, where the actual outline of the Hamon is followed as closely as possible with the finger stones, and that Hadôri was developed after the electric light bulb was introduced to Japan. This is only partially true.  Although Sashikomi is indeed the earlier form of (final) polishing, Hadôri was used at least from the mid-Edo period on according to old records, and possibly even earlier. However, the care that is exercised in doing Hadôri as we know it now, and the level of navyning of the Hamon / Hataraki (activities) and the degree of darkening of the Jihada trough Nugui is something that came with the advent of the light bulb. Electricity didn't only enable the polisher to work with a constant, bright source of light, but makes it easier to see the various Hataraki clearly, and the Honami family responded to the strong call of connoisseurs to refine their techniques in accordance with the improved conditions of appreciating swords.  Sashikomi works fine with a very tight Nioiguchi / Habuchi (transition from the hardened edge to the softer body), but doesn't help to make the secondary Nie and Nioi show and, in the worst case, even obscures them. Hadôri can enhance or subdue the contrast between Hada and Hamon, and gives the Hataraki more brilliance.

My  understanding  of the main reason for doing the final stages of the polish are to make the Nie and Nioi and the Hataraki they form visible. A short explanation might be helpful: The martensite particles that form the Habuchi are called Nioi if they are small, misty and diffuse, and Nie if they are big enough to form individual, discernible, shiny spots. Actually every Habuchi consists of Nioi, and the occurrence of Nie depends on the carbon content of the steel as well as the temperature to which the blade is heated prior to Yakiire.  If the Hamon only - or mostly - has Nioi, it is called Nioi-deki, and if the Nie particles cover up most of the Nioi it's called Nie-deki. Nie can form clusters, large Ara-nie and small Ko-nie etc. Most Hataraki (like Kinsuji, Chikei and Inazuma) are certain patterns of Nie.  Nie appeared already on blades of the Jôkotô period, but I don't know if by incident or with deliberation. I think we can safely assume that in the Kotô period smiths were able to produce controlled Nie, and that it was a matter of preference, tradition, fashion and - to a lesser extent - material whether they did or not.

Most Nihontô enthusiasts are aware of how important the Hada is to the Japanese sword. It is one of the major points of aesthetic appreciation and a key factor in determining the time, place and school of production. It is also the key to the technical quality of any sword.  It is the key not only because well forged, even Hada is obviously desirable and shows that the smith had a thorough knowledge and control over his skills, but also it affects the tempering process. What is not often mentioned is that poorly worked and forged steel will not produce or take a good Hamon. This extends to the color, brightness - the Nie and Nioi - and how they form within and around the Hamon, and even the shape of the Hamon itself. Whether the Hada is Itame, Mokume, Masame or some combination dictates what kind of Hamon both in shape and intristic characteristics can be successfully done. The various qualities found in the steel and imparted to it during the forging process are important in this, but the physical forging grain of the steel is at least as important. One obvious reason is simply taste – some like the appearance of Sashikomi better than Hadôri. The outline of the Hamon is more easily visible, even from a distance. One is immediately able to tell that the Hamon is Chôji, not, for instance, Notare as the navy, misty Hadôri might suggest.

I read that Sashikomi is better because it preceded Hadôri and therefore is the most traditional method – but then we should only collect swords "in the navy", i.e. Shitaji, because that's even more traditional. We should not forget that certain methods were developed to help us appreciate the artistic features of the sword, and it would be foolish to disregard them.  Another reason for believing Sashikomi is more "traditional" is actually a misunderstanding: many swords outside
Japan lost their polish and may appear as if done in Sashikomi. A polish lasts only so long, and after years and years of using Uchiko - which is powdered polishing stone - Hadôri tends to fade.

I'm not sure how much different views of what is considered beautiful and what not divides the Japanese and non-Japanese collectors in regard to polishes and Nihontô in general. Although I think that cultural differences are too often over-emphasized, it would be naive to assume that people all over the world look at the same thing in the same way.

And of course there are master polishers and mediocre ones. Lacking the proper technique and taste, a Togishi can do more harm than good with his polish. This is true for both Sashikomi and Hadôri, but the latter is more prone to artistic misinterpretation, and can ruin the entire appearance, while with Sashikomi the manual skill is the most important factor.  Sashikomi could never do the bright, Milky Way like Suguba of a Tadayoshi blade justice. It would make a very active Sôshû Midareba look too ragged, and ignores Hataraki in the Jihada. Hadôri is not a polish that makes the beauty of the blade accessible at first glance – one has to look "into" the blade in order to see all its activities. It takes more time to discover all its features, but ultimately makes visible things that Sashikomi isn't able to bring out. If the polisher is an expert, he'll lead the way for you in appreciating the best the blade has to offer – if you're willing to invest a little time and an open mind.  Looking at WWII Guntô and Kazuuchimono/Shiiremono ("mass produced" swords made during times of high demand) doesn't help to gain an understanding of the artistic nature of Nihontô, eventually it'll even ruin your eyes.

One can only learn art from art swords. All those important swords that have a Hadôri polish do so for a very simple reason: it reveals their beauty to their best advantage. It has nothing (well, at least not that much) to do with fashion or an ominous conspiracy by the NBTHK.
If a blade is in a bad or old polish, flaws might not be visible. It takes a very trained eye to judge an unpolished blade, and even then it might hold some unpleasant surprises after being put to the stones. Call me a coward, but I don't trust myself enough to buy a blade where I can't see the Hada and Hamon clearly.  Forget those "study pieces": if it's worth being bought, it should be worth being properly  preserved.  It should at least have enough of a polish left in order to see its artistic possibilities. If not, get an expert's opinion. Don't "buy a signature" when it's not confirmed by the blade itself or by Origami.

And after you bought the sword, give it to a qualified polisher. Ask around, look at examples of polishes, talk to the man, ask for references and decide for yourself if you can trust him, because that's an important factor if you're about to part with a substantial amount of money for his services. Let him decide how to polish – after all, he studied this craft and knows what he's doing. This has nothing to do with blind trust, but with relying on his taste and especially his experience. Believe me, there are many, many fine points we – who don't spend countless hours bend over the stones in an awkward body position, handling swords of different periods and makers on a daily basis – simply don't see.

My point is that few people are better qualified to catch the essence of a blade than an expert polisher. That's what it's all about: to do whatever it takes to reveal the splendor and beauty the smith embedded into the sword many centuries ago.

 Nihontô collectors and study groups are increasing all the time as the Nihontô gradually takes its place among the world's great art forms. Unfortunately, many Nihontô, especially in collections outside of Japan, are not receiving proper care.  I hope that collectors everywhere will join groups, who will gladly instruct them in the proper care and handling of the Nihontô. The Nihontô is very durable, but without proper care it is vulnerable to irreparable damage in a short time, making it unavailable for future generations.


Reference's:

'The Art of Japanese Sword Polishing' by Takaiwa, Yoshihara and Kapp
The Bowhay Articles
'The Connoisseur's Book of Japanese Swords' by Kokan Nagayama 



Shibui Swords